Public
Health Implications and Consumer Recommendations
Kathi
S. Allen
S.T.O.P.-Safe Tables Our Priority
USDA/FSIS Premature Browning of Cooked Hamburger Study Public
Meeting
Arlington, VA
May 27, 2025
Thank
you for inviting me to present consumer recommendations on
food-safety messages. First, however, I'd like to tell you
what motivates a busy mother of four and a business owner
to give up family and work time to promote changes in our
food safety messages. I wouldn't have volunteered for this
but some things change your life.
For
me, that change happened in January 1993. Up until that time
I was like most American consumers-the only food safety training
I had was a two-minute speech in an eighth grade home economics
class. Then, I went to visit my children's classmate who was
seriously ill in children's hospital. Horrific lessons in
food safety were permanently imprinted on my mind from that
trip to pediatric intensive care during the Jack In the Box
outbreak. I wasn't prepared for what I saw:
- 60
families huddled on plastic mats on the floor waiting for
news on their children's health.
- A
grandmother having a heart attack on the floor. She was
refusing paramedics pleas to transport to another hospital.
She wouldn't leave her critically ill grandchild at Children's.
- A
doctor telling a family "I'm sorry but we have to take
your [two- year- old] son's colon out."
- Then,
the helicopter blades overhead and the audible gasp that
signaled the arrival of another critically ill child.
- The
desperate search for enough dialysis machines for pediatric
intensive care patients.
And
then, I saw Brianne. These pictures only tell a small portion
of the damage these pathogens can inflict on the human body.
Don't let anyone deceive you into believing that food borne
illness is similar to gas pains or a mild upset stomach. My
nephew's "mild" battle with E.Coli 0157:H7 will
perhaps let you see inside a mild case. He was a 21-year-old
"macho" male when he ate a "brown" but
undercooked contaminated hamburger. When I visited him he
was rolling in his bed crying and bleeding rectally. He said,
"It feels like my insides are being boiled in oil."
That's mild.
But
back to Brianne. I left the hospital wondering, "How
could a hamburger do this, how can I and my family be safe?
I resolved to find answers. Brianne's illness was caused by
contaminated meat and a restaurant's failure to cook hamburgers
to the state required temperature. It was not a failure to
cook until brown. Her case brought the largest settlement
in Washington State history-over $15 million dollars and it
is questionable whether it will be enough to cover her life
long medical needs.
But
here is the question some in this room need to consider. Who's
responsible when consumers become critically ill from following
flawed messages delivered by credible public health representatives?
In
the wake of the Jack in the Box outbreak, the "brown
in the middle" message blared from every TV and newspaper
in this country. Even though the problem with premature browning
had already been noted, consumers were not warned.
Let
me tell you some stories of consumers reliance on the brown
in the middle messages. Six months after Jack in the Box,
Nancy Donley served her son Alex a brown hamburger. What happened
to Alex from eating brown hamburger? I'll read portions from
her statement at last year's National Food Safety Educator's
Conference, "Alex's screams were followed by silence
he suffered tremors and delusions monitors registered organ
failure after organ failureportions of his brain were liquefiedmy
only child, my long awaited, much-loved six year old son was
dead."
"I
can't tell you the number of times I've been asked by well-meaning
people, "Didn't you cook it?" Of course I cooked
it! I did what millions of people do all the time. I fired
up the Smokey Joe, put the pre-formed patties on the grill,
and when they looked cooked, fed them to my family."
A
year after the outbreak, Holly Scott fed her son a hamburger.
She too believed brown meant a safer burger. Holly's son died
an believably painful death. This three year-old's pain was
so intense that he broke his teeth from biting down. Holly
buried her only child on the one-year anniversary of the outbreak.
Damion Heersink ate one bite of brown hamburger on a Boy Scout
campout, he spent six weeks in intensive care and required
100 units of blood. I tell you these stories not, as some
may accuse, to tug at your emotions, but to let you know very
clearly what science has already told you, using hamburger
color as an indicator of doneness is a fatally flawed message.
And I tell you these stories to answer a recent meat industry
representative's comment to me, "Show me the bodies."
What
Consumers Need
What
consumers need and expect from those charged with our safety
is encapsulated in one word-truth. Every family of an ill
child who contacts S.T.O.P. says "I wish I'd known. Why
wasn't I told?." Would Nancy and Holly have used a thermometer
if they had known the risk? Absolutely. But, they weren't
told.
So,
what is the scientific evidence saying?
- Reaching
an internal temperature of 160°F is the only effective
method of destroying pathogens in a hamburger.
- A
certain percentage of ground beef will look fully cooked
before it has reached a safe internal temperature.
- A
certain percentage of ground beef will have persistent pinkness
regardless of internal temperature.
- A
percentage of consumers who trust the color message will
unknowingly put themselves at risk by eating brown undercooked
ground beef.
Why
the resistance to telling the truth? I've been told:
- We
don't want to associate risk with eating a hamburger.
- Consumers
are not likely to use a thermometer.
- The
correct message isn't simple enough.
- Accurate
thermometers aren't available.
- It
won't taste as good.
The
truth is the truth, whether or not industry likes it or established
education campaigns are working. The evidence is clear. What
consumers do with the information is their choice. But, they
must be given the chance to make an educated choice and not
placated with false and dangerous messages.
Currently,
at least three states are experiencing clusters or outbreaks.
A question for those in this room who favor color messages:
Did you contribute to these illnesses by advocating the dangerous
message of trusting color? Did you weaken the temperature
message by using something like these consumer messages?
- GA
Department of Health-"Cook all ground beef and hamburger
thoroughly. Make Sure the cooked meat is brown throughout
(not pink) and juices run clear. ( Note: no temperature
warning.)
- Texas
A&M-The public may be unsure about using thermometers."
"We still recommend that consumers cook meats thoroughly
until they are brown, particularly hamburger." "For
the vast majority of cases, brown meat is safe meat."
- Allegheny
Health Department-"If using a meat thermometer is not
possible to check the temperature of a hamburger, follow
the advice of the Health Department's most popular mascot
Browny the Burger, who says, "If I'm pink in the middle,
I'm cooked too little."
Seven
billion pounds of ground beef are consumed in the US each
year. Given that a certain percentage will turn prematurely
brown, some of the consumers who follow your "brown"
advice are at risk. Kansas State University tested retail
ground beef and found an average of 46% premature browning
BEFORE reaching a safe temperature. The FSIS/ARS study found
nearly two thirds of previously frozen hamburger turned prematurely
brown before reaching a safe internal temperature. No matter
which percentage you choose, any percentage of seven billion
is too much risk for uninformed consumers.
What
we want you to know about the consumer
- Today's
typical consumer has very little food safety instruction.
Most of us just received the two-minute cooking class lecture
in junior high and today's sound bites. We expect those
who are responsible for crafting today's sound bites to
give us safe and reliable messages.
- Consumers
do not use thermometers because they don't understand the
need. Why should they use thermometers when you've crafted
an easier (although less safe) alternative? Continuing to
spread the message that "Brown in the middle is safe"
endangers consumers and weakens the temperature messages.
Consumer safety messages must be based on science rather
than what you believe will be more acceptable.
In
conclusion, I ask you, on behalf of all consumers, to take
your responsibility to the American consumer very seriously.
Inform the public today that temperature is the only reliable
indicator of hamburger doneness. Correct your websites, brochures,
press releases and educational materials. Change your PSA's.
Present a unified temperature only message. Yes, it is a big
job to re-educate the American Public. But, given your success
in dispersing your well-intentioned but dangerous brown message,
we have no doubt you can succeed.
What
do consumers want from those entrusted with crafting public
health and safety messages-the truth.
Color
and Cooking References
Meat
and Poultry Magazine. March 1989. "USDA's Hamburger Alert"
Trout,
G.R. 1989. "Effect of pH and Total Pigment Concentration
on the Internal Color of Cooked Ground Beef Patties."
J.Food Sci. 54(1):1-2.
Food
Chemical News. January 30, 1989. P. 23-24, 60-64.
Marksberry,
C.L. 1990. "The Effect of Fat Level. PH, Carcass Maturity
and Compaction on the Cooked Internal Color of Ground Beef
Patties at Five End-Point Temperatures."
Cornforth,
D., Calkins, C.R., Faustman, C. 1991. "Methods for Indentification
and Prevention of Pink Color in Cooked Meat." Reciprocal
Meat Conference Proceedings, AMSA 44:53-58.
Thurston
County Health Department (WA), September 1992. Article titled,
"I'll take my E.Coli Well Done, Please!" "You
can't tell the temperature just by looking at the food".Ground
beef must now be cooked to 155F."
USDA.
1992. Meat and Poultry Inspection. Report of Secretary of
Agriculture to U.S. Congress. USDA. Washington, DC.
FDA.
1993. Food Code. US Public Health Service, Food and Drug Administration.
Washington, D.C.
Warren,
K.E. 1994. "An investigation of the chemical properties
associated with normal and premature brown cooked color development
in ground beef patties." Ph.D. Dissertation. Kansas State
University, Manhattan, Kansas
Berry,
B.W. 1994. "Fat Level, High Temperature Cooking and Degree
of Doneness Affect Sensory Chemical and Physical Properties
of Beef Patties." J. Food Protection. 59 (1): 10-14,19.
Hague,
M.A., Warren, K.E., Hunt, M.C., Kropf, D.H., Kastner, C.L.,
Stroda, S.L., and Johnson, D.E. 1994. "Endpoint temperature,
internal Cooked Color, and Expressible Juice Color Relationships
in Ground Beef Patties." J. Food Science. 59 (3):465-470.
Warren,
K.E., Hunt, M.C., and Kropf, D.H. 1995a. "Myoglobin oxidative
state affects internal cooked color development in ground
beef patties." International Congress Meat Sci. and Technology.
41: 394-395.
Warren,
K.E., Hunt, M.C., Kropf, D.H., Hague, M.A., Waldner, C.L.,
Stroda, S.L. and Kastner, C.L. 1995b. "Chemical properties
of ground beef patties exhibiting normal and premature brown
internal cooked color." Journal Muscle Foods.
Warren,
K.E., Hunt, M.C., Kropf, D.H., Hague, M.A., Waldner, C.L.,
Stroda, S.L. and Kastner, C.L. 1995. Department of Animal
Sciences, Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas. Presentation
to American Chemical Society. April 6, 1995.
FSIS-Technical
Information, June 1996. "Color of Cooked Ground Beef
and Juices as it Relates to Doneness. "Recent research
results have raised questions regarding suggestions for the
visual checks for doneness." ground beef may appear to
have lost all pink color before it is fully cooked."
It may look fully cooked before it reaches a safe internal
temperature." Persistent pinkness-"There are several
reasons why ground beef may remain pink at temperatures above
160F." Under advice for consumers on avoiding foodborne
illness, "Thorough cooking is most accurately measured
by use of a meat thermometer."
USDA/FSIS-Technical
Information. February 1997. "Addendum to Color of Cooked
Ground Beef and Juices as it Relates to Doneness" Technical
Information from FSIS, April 1996.
Clinton,
Hillary. "Food-Safety Regulations Help to Ensure 4th
Remains Festive." The Washington Times. Page A2. July
3, 1997.
Correspondence.
May 1998. Dr. Hunt. Retail ground beef percentages of Premature
Browning.
FSIS/ARS
Study: Premature Browning of Cooked Hamburgers. Draft. May
1998.
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